November 2024 marked my second time stepping into Port-au-Prince—but this trip was nothing like the first. I came back with a clear and dangerous mission: to meet BBQ, a former police officer turned acting gang boss of the G9, at a moment when the city felt like it was balanced on the edge of chaos.
From the moment I arrived, the tension was unmistakable. Bullets were flying in the distance—and sometimes far too close—and more than once I caught myself thinking, with unsettling clarity, this could be the end of me. What was supposed to be a reporting journey quickly became a test of instinct, fear, and how far I was willing to go to understand the reality unfolding inside one of the world’s most volatile cities.
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